Clothes that dress people, not genders
Lula Arreola is a Mexican transgender fashion designer whose creations act as a free and safe exploration of the individual.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @lulabbylula
Fashion is in constant revolution and in recent years, undeniably, it has become a powerful space for exploring and creating dialogues around gender, identity and expression. Figures like April Ashley and Tracey "Africa" Norman paved the way into the 20th century gender-crossing history inspiring, till today, a big number of creatives, designers, models and activists who are shaping a “new wave” of contemporary fashion industry.
Lula Arreola —a Mexican transgender fashion designer who graduated in 2019— is rapidly starting to make a name for herself by the way she plays with the segmentations imposed between the masculine and the feminine. Through her designs, she wants to normalize openness, by encouraging individuals to speak their truth and break conventions. Her designs have witnessed the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, major publications such as Elle and a Spotify campaign of Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny.
Karen Santos: How did fashion design arrive to your life?
Lula Arreola: Fashion design has always been something that I have been passionate about since I was little. I used to sit with my mom and read fashion magazines while choosing our favorite looks. Later on, I started dressing up my dolls in tissue and designing dresses for them. I guess my Max Steels never saw this coming! (laughs). It made me happy to work on new looks but I never imagined that I would dedicate myself entirely to this industry. One day, a teacher in high school told me that I could do it and persuaded me to pursue that dream. Since then, I have been looking for the possibilities to fulfill it.
K: If you could choose some cultural references that portray your style, which ones would they be?
L: A song would be “Immortal” by Marina and the Diamonds; it reminds me that everything is ephemeral and gives me the desire to leave a mark on the world. A movie would be Mark Robson’s “Valley of the Dolls” which is my favorite classic. And if I could choose a fictional character, that would be Jules from “Euphoria”. I think that many trans people might identify with Jules’ experiences like her dysphoria, her doubts about gender and sexuality, and how tired or difficult it is to be a trans person living in an ignorant and intolerant society.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @lulabbylula
K: What role did fashion have during your gender transition process?
L: Fashion always had a strong impact on me and my transition process. For many people, fashion is still considered a banal and materialistic industry. For me, fashion is art, culture and beauty. It empowers and allows me to be who I want to be. It allows me not to feel fear and allows me to express myself. Fashion is a creative tool that allows us to express how we feel and who we.
K: Your pieces seem to have come out from a mix between a fairy tale and Japanese manga. Can you tell us more about your inspiration?
L: I think my style varies in two branches: cute and spooky. The Sailor Moon collection has some kawaii, romantic, subtle and sublime elements. I wanted to create a vision of what it would be like to dress in a romantic and ethereal way. Soon, I want to design darker and edgy clothes to play with that “cute and spooky” duality.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @lulabbylula
K: In recent years, fashion has increased its participation among the breadth of genres that we know today. What could you tell us about the role of your work in this cause?
L: The idea behind my designs is to create different ways of dressing, no matter the gender of the person. My goal is to have the clothes I design beautify whoever wears them, regardless of their height, weight, age and gender. I want the person who wears my designs to feel happy and self-confident- for those who feel different to get visibility. There is nothing better in this world than to be able to be yourself!
K: What is your textile intervention process?
L: Very varied! (laughs). It's always about trial and error and paying attention to the things you can improve on and the things that are just not working. My most laborious textile intervention was for a capsule collection inspired by the Asian legend of the red thread. I was unraveling meters of denim, to dye some threads in wine- red and pink. Then I sewed these intermingled threads on a dark canvas to create a texture that resembles entrails. My message was that we are all interconnected and entangled with each other.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @lulabbylula
K: Was it difficult to establish yourself as a designer in such a competitive industry?
L: The world of fashion is highly competitive, but I can say with great confidence that I believe in my vision and I believe in my own style. Also, the support I have received from people in the industry has been incredible. I have learned that collaborating with others can bring better results than working with a competitive attitude.
K: Your Sailor Moon-inspired clothing line was featured in a Spotify campaign starring Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny. Can you tell us more about this experience?
L: It was incredible! The fact that Bad Bunny wore my final look from the collection practically reaffirms the idea I had in mind when designing it. Pink and hyper feminine is ridiculously powerful, and if such an important contemporary figure can bring visibility and honor my work, then it means my vision is on the right track. I am very grateful for it.
Photo: Courtesy of the artist.
K: How do your designs portray your personal history
L: The Sailor Moon collection is inspired in my life and my transition process. Each look tells a story, and it can be seen through this transformation from a schoolgirl to a moon princess. It can be seen through details like the color palette, embroidered heart motifs or hearts made with tulle. These items were off-limits to me because they were strictly feminine when I was a growing child. In some symbolic way, it represents my inability to hide my femininity as a child, and that by accepting it, that femininity makes me unstoppable, strong and beautiful. It allows me to be the authentic version of myself.
K: What advice would you give to upcoming designers that would like to portray gender identities through their designs?
L: Being a trans person is not easy, but the process becomes wonderful once you accept it and realize that there is nothing wrong with it. Sometimes you feel very lonely, but you are not. There are many people like you. There is no right or wrong way to transition. We are told that without operations or hormones, a trans person is not authentic. But this is a big lie. No matter how you look like on the outside, your identity is yours and nobody can take it away from you. The only validation and acceptance you need is yours.
Photo: Courtesy of the artist.