Ladéga: Timeless Outerwear, Modern Conscience

In the world of fashion, where trends often come and go, Ladéga emerges as a beacon of timeless elegance and conscious design. Founded by Tumisola, who found her calling in outerwear during her tenure at Burberry, the brand reflects a deep-seated passion for creating pieces that transcend fleeting styles. In this interview, Tumisola shares the inspiration behind Ladéga, her commitment to sustainability, and the influence of 50s and 60s haute couture on her debut collection. We delve into her design philosophy, which emphasizes minimalism and refined beauty, and how it challenges conventional standards in the fashion industry.

We The Cool: What inspired you to start Ladéga, and how did you arrive at the brand’s focus on timeless, high-quality outerwear?

Tumisola: Ladéga has been on my heart for many years. During my time at university, I fell in love with outerwear, finding it to be my favorite form of sartorial creative expression. This passion was solidified during my time designing outerwear at Burberry. What I loved about the brand was its heritage and dedication to functionality and creating timeless heirlooms—qualities I want to explore at Ladega. Coats are often the items of clothing we hold on to the longest, sometimes even passing them down to the next generation. I adore that idea and strive to design my pieces to stand the test of time.

WTC: Ladéga’s philosophy emphasizes a conscious approach to fashion. Can you delve deeper into how this philosophy influences your design and production processes?

T: As much as I loved fashion and had always dreamed of having my own brand, when the time finally came to go for it, I struggled with the feeling that starting a brand would only contribute to the problems within the fashion industry. Let's face it, the world doesn't need more clothes. This realization challenged me to make a decision: if I was going to move forward with creating a brand, it had to positively impact the world rather than contribute to its detriment. Though there are many issues within the industry and various aspects of sustainability, I decided to focus on consumption and production because these were the areas that infuriated me the most. As the saying goes, the thing that makes you the most angry is often the thing you are most passionate about.

At Ladéga, our approach is intentional and mindful. We release a maximum of 12 designs per year, spread across each season, focusing on purpose and longevity, and we are completely transparent with our order quantities. We utilize deadstock fabrics to minimize waste, sourced from other fashion houses, and primarily follow a made-to-order strategy to eliminate stock wastage and overproduction. We value integrity and simplicity, and we advocate for conscious consumption.

WTC: Your debut collection, "Collection 1," is inspired by haute couture coats from the 50s and 60s. Can you share more about how these historical references are integrated into your designs?

T: What I loved about the haute couture outerwear of the 50s and 60s was how these ultra-chic women would wear oversized shapes in such a feminine way. In fashion today, there is a certain masculinity to oversized silhouettes, and that's what I wanted to challenge in my collection. I love the freedom and comfort of a loose-fitting coat, but I also wanted the pieces to feel elegant and feminine. Hence, I used flared shapes, rounded sleeves, and exaggerated lapels and collars.

WTC: The collection uses flared and sculpted cuts along with oversized silhouettes. What was the design process like in achieving this unique balance?

T: To strike the right balance, the process involved playing with proportions: a large lapel would complement a straighter silhouette, while a voluminous flared shape would be paired with a sharp, realistic collar. It was important to create pieces that had a quiet boldness without being too comical.

WTC: Ladéga uses high-grade deadstock fabrics to minimize waste. Can you elaborate on the process of sourcing these materials and how it impacts your production?

T: We source our fabric through Nona Source, a trusted deadstock supplier based in France. What we love about their fabric is that it is traceable and produced in compliance with REACH regulations.

WTC: What would you say is your favorite piece and why?

T: I love our signature flared trench coat. The trench is my favorite kind of outerwear, and I have explored many creative interpretations of the style over the past few years. However, there is something so simple and beautiful about this particular one, and I think it’s the movement. When I design, I like to envision not only how the coat will sit on the body but also how it will move. And this particular coat quite literally dances—it's amazing.

WTC: What are some future goals or upcoming projects for Ladéga? Are you excited to explore any new materials, technologies, or design concepts?

T: I am excited to explore more ways to source new, sustainable fabrics. I look forward to working closely with more suppliers and having more input in the creation process.

WTC: Can you share a memorable challenge or learning experience while building Ladéga?

T: This one is more on the funny side. As a small business, we predominantly shoot in-house, often with me behind the camera. On one of our first shoots, the camera died halfway through. Thankfully, we were able to get a second camera in an emergency, but then the SD card broke, so we had to shoot the rest on an iPhone. Note to self: always bring a spare SD card and a camera charger—haha!

WTC: Tell us about yourself. Who is Tumisola? What is your background? What inspired you to pursue a career in design?

T: I was born and raised in London and have a Nigerian heritage. I started designing at the age of 6 and made my first collection when I was 14 years old. I have loved fashion design for as long as I can remember. I consider myself a creative person, so I have always needed a creative outlet, which started with drawing. My dad is an architect, so I like to think that growing up in his creative world had a huge impact on me, too.

WTC: What do you hope to bring to the design world that sets you apart from other designers?

T: My goal is to be more than just a fashion brand. Ultimately, my heart is set on building a space where women who struggle with shame from past experiences and trauma can feel safe, find community, and receive support and counsel. I hope that Ladega will be able to fund this vision. I often refer to the brand as "Covered" because that is what I hope it will do for women: cover them not just in clothes, but in safety and comfort.

WTC: Our current editorial issue is about perception and how it plays a role in our daily decisions and conceptions. How do you define aesthetics in your designs, and how does your perception of beauty influence your creative process?

T: I personally believe that beauty comes from within, and this philosophy guides the creative process of designing clothes with intention, purpose, and quality. I am also an advocate for quiet beauty—subtle and meant to be discovered. When I design, I prefer not to pour too many ideas into a single garment; I don’t believe something needs to be loud to attract attention. Ladéga is built on minimal aesthetics and refined finishes.

WTC: In fashion, how do you balance personal expression with societal standards of beauty? Do you aim to challenge or redefine these standards through your work?

T: I hope that my brand challenges society’s narrow standards of beauty, which often call for uniformity and a specific way of looking. Trends frequently support the narrative that in order to feel confident and beautiful, one must conform to a particular look. Ladéga is not a trend-led brand; it is purpose-driven. Our hope is that people who resonate with our designs feel confident wearing them. We value individuals and have no desire for our clothes to hold more value than the person wearing them. This is what I love about minimal, refined design: I don’t believe the clothes should speak louder than the person wearing them. Beauty comes from within the wearer, not from the clothes themselves.