#FashionNow Turning Points in Ethnic Mosaics
Five model agencies seeking for a more inclusive culture.
Photo: Courtesy of Guerxs.
When was the last time you felt beauty standards imposed by society genuinely represented you? From mass media, advertising, to fashion shows and magazines, we have all been exposed to an infinity of unapproachable concepts of how people should -or not- look like. In the last few years, our need to see a wide variety of models whom we can relate to, has turned into a call to action that the fashion industry is finally responding to. Despite multiracial representation still being too far from where it should be, there’s no doubt it’s finally on the rise.
Dressing up is an exclusive need of humankind making the fashion industry one of the few businesses that has an impact on everyone’s lives. It is imperative that we start seeing people from all ethnicities and cultures represented in the fashion industry. Companies need to shy away from the controversy that is portraying someone that doesn't fit into "traditional" beauty standards. We need to recognize that there has been an imbalance between who “creates” fashion and who it is designed for.
The question here is: How are these shifts showing up at model castings? How are casting directors changing the criteria that comes up when choosing a model? We tend to forget what goes on behind the scenes when agencies decide who the next face of fashion will be. As part of this month's celebration of cultural heritage we are sharing a selection of five platforms that are seeking inclusion and diversity as their overall business values.
BAME Models (London)
@bameagency
BAME Models is the first model agency of Black, Indian and Asian models across Europe. Founded by Marcus Flemmings in 2016 with the purpose of being inclusive to any race, gender, sex, height and age. The name BAME aims to change the negative connotation behind the word previously used to call out members of nonwhite communities across the UK. The new purpose is to empower individuals coming from different backgrounds. All the models of the company are described as ambitious, bold, professional and able to strive for greatness.
Photo: Courtesy of Bame Models. Feriel Moulai for Vogue Arabia.
Guerxs (Mexico City)
@guerxs
Halfway through her Architecture degree, Maria Osado founded Güerxs, a Mexico City based agency showing faces that were not usually represented in the daily Mexican fashion scene. She is leading to redefine Mexican stereotypes, breaking with the imposed social consciousness that exists in the country and demonstrating that “local” it’s not a synonym for “exotic”. The name of the agency makes reference to the Spanish slang term “güero”, a descriptive word used to refer to any person with a lighter skin tone or hair. For years, this term has pushed a conversation around the connotations of race and class in Latin America. The agency uses this context as an ironic and playful way of featuring different phenotypes as well as social and physical contexts in Mexican culture.
Photo: Courtesy of Guerxs.
Jira Models (Australia)
@jiramodels
Named after her great-great grandmother Nara Jira Para (from The Wuthathi, an aboriginal Australian community in Queensland), stylist and model Perina Drummond founded in 2017 Jira Models. Jira Models is the first modeling agency that represents indigenous people in Australia, driven by their strong cultural connections and celebrating aspects of their native culture which has been misunderstood and excluded by most mainstream organizations. Their talents acknowledge and understand their responsibility to guide and empower future generations by continuing to use their voice to make this, not only a trend, but a permanent change.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @jiramodels
Umma Models (London)
@ummamodels
Established in 2017 in London, Umma Models works, with women of all modestly levels and religious ideologies, giving them the opportunity to get involved within the fashion industry without separating them from their practices. Shannie, the founder and director, recognizes the importance of giving models a contract that allows them to adhere to their daily prayer schedules and follow their religion guidelines, creating an agency constituted by integrity and respect .
Photo: Alexandra Brannan @alexandra.brannan. Courtesy of Umma Models.
Strong Worldwide
@strongworldwide
Standing for “Street Talent Representing Our New Generation”, founder Madeleine Ostlie set her sight on starting a globally-sourced modeling board with urban casting as the primary approach for scouting new talents and curated to represent a new generation of unfound talent worldwide. The platform is a statement to the modelling world by bringing all races, ethnicities, sexual orientations together under one umbrella. STRONG focuses on selecting models based on their identity and story.
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram @strongworldwide