Five Designers Making their Fashion Week Debut

Fashion is a fickle industry. Trends race in and out of fashion magazines so fast that our wardrobes feel to be in a constant state of flux. And while the suggestions of change towards sustainability and inclusivity are increasing, the real switch still feels to be quite far. But, the next generation of emerging designers isn’t playing into the old rules. They don’t just make beautiful and unique clothing (I mean, of course, they do that too), but their whole approach to what fashion is and what it represents, is different. Clothes and collections are meant for the individual, regardless of gender, size, or color.

And just like that, Fashion Week was here again. In addition to buzzy trends and viral moments, one of the most exciting parts of the season is discovering the up-and-coming talents that are meant to change the rules. Below, we've compiled the names and designers who debuted their collections this time around.

Commission

Photo: AW22 “Fast Riders, Slow Dancers”.

The brand has been around since 2018, but this is its first in-person presentation on the official calendar. The design trio of Huy Luong, Dylan Cao, and Jin Kay behind the cool label Commission took the irony you see in the fabrics and the cutting of the clothes, which reflects a clear juxtaposition that infuses their latest collection, “Fast Riders, Slow Dancers”. The brand fulfills the promise of the Wild West and every cut, fabric, proportion, and finish is carefully considered. Simply put, these are the clothes you want to wear every day.

Conner Ives

Photo: “The America Dream” collection.

Designer Conner Ives mixes his New York upbringing with his London cool kid education. Between his playful shapes, punchy colors, and patchwork fabrics, it's no surprise that celebrities just as Adwoa Aboah and Rihanna have become fans. His design process is fueled by memories of childhood, inspired by the girls and women he grew up with. The label, from its inception, has searched to address how we can make smarter, more responsible clothes. Nostalgia is portrayed in an almost literal sense through the use of vintage garments for raw material.

ZANKOV

Photo: Courtesy of ZANKOV Instagram.

While knitwear veteran designer Henry Zankov is no stranger to fashion, his brand ZANKOV is on the official NYFW schedule for the first time this season. ZANKOV is a knitwear collection that establishes a new visual language in fashion and textiles. Henry has always been drawn by graphic patterns, especially the Russian constructivist aesthetic, and the Russian avant-garde art movement. Zankov knits up craft, sustainability and a personal sense of inspiration for Fall-Winter 2022 with a strong emphasis on color, shape and pattern. The brand builds an adventurous graphic lexicon, going beyond the realms of clothing. Quality and finish are paramount: the inside of each garment is just as important as the outside. The Russian designer continues to create luxury artful pieces that stand the tests of trends and time.

Chet Lo

Photos: “The Tundra” collection.

Following the success of his first collections, the Asian-American designer joined the agenda of young talent at Fashion East, where his debut was received with critical acclaim. Approaching Autumn Winter 2022, Chet Lo wanted to take traditional winter wear, deconstruct it and make it dissimilar. Looking to the beauty of the arctic, "The Tundra" was born. The electric color palette reflects the enchanting beauty found in the coldest climates, like the celestial arctic lights, the purest white snow, and the different colors you see when light hits the ice. Celebration of the body is integral to Lo’s work inviting you to express your sensuality while still covered.

Elena Velez

Photos: Morph x Elena Velez Collaboration ‘Epoch’ - Rinascita look book for NYFW 

Elena Velez’s version of femininity, it’s tough and gritty. She’s from Milwaukee, the only child of a single mother who is a ship captain. Velez stresses that she has her own unorthodox perception of womanhood, which through her creations, has turned out to be wildly confident, a bit aggressive, and very hot. Her brutal, industrial designs have been called “aggressively delicate”; she utilizes raw materials to create a sore woman, entirely unglamorous and yet still somehow womanly in its emphasis on the neckline and form. Elena’s first official runway show on the calendar was entitled “YR 01⁠— Maidenhood & Its Labors” and took on the difficult narratives of a woman emerging from the ashes. The clothes at first glance seem unwearable, but maybe that’s exactly the point being made. Is the woman comfortable in a dress constructed from repurposed parachutes? Is she leaning into her womanly nature or running away from it?